Naturally, I’m pondering of Shakespeare’s play whilst the ferry approaches Helsingør’s Kronborg Fort (Elsinore). The ocean is frothing with Nice Cormorant and Herring Gull, with greater than 100 birds diving into the water. What’s that? A fin, any other one. There are Harbour Porpoises correct subsequent to the ferry! They’re most probably attempting to find herring or any other hapless little fish. Triumph over with awe, I flip to Jesus…
… and I hand him my binoculars. He will get a excellent glance of the little whales too, however everyone else at the ferry is outwardly blind to the spectacle. Don’t folks see what’s round them anymore? And the way come I’m touring with Jesus?
I left you simply sooner than the Swedish wedding ceremony final time, so let’s select up the tale there. It’s the morning of the marriage rite and I’m up at dawn. Which is frightfully early in Sweden’s summer time. My future for lately is Kullaberg Nature Reserve. Kullaberg or Kullen are the synonyms I’ve come throughout on quite a lot of web sites. To stick with The Bard, a rose by way of another identify would scent as candy. Kullaberg Nature Reserve, or the eBird hotspot location Kullen, is an excellent aggregate of cliffs, sea, seashores, rocky shore and forests.
I spent a while within the reserve the day past afternoon to determine the place to head and now not waste time getting misplaced or wandering round aimlessly. I already know that for sea-watching I wish to cross to the lighthouse, stroll down at the right-hand facet following the signal Silvergrottan to the moderately sumptuous viewing platform at the tip of the cape.
So it’s this morning. I park the auto and stroll thru a cacophony of chicken tune to the point of view. The entire now acquainted Swedish songbirds may also be heard loud and transparent. Wren, Not unusual Redstart, Chaffinch, Blackcap, Icterine Warbler, Mick Jagger. Sure, Sir Mick’s “Happy to satisfy you” rings from above: Not unusual Rosefinch, one in every of my goals. I spend the following 45 mins strolling across the tree from which Mick is making a song however simply can’t in finding the chicken. And the ocean is ready, so reluctantly I surrender (for now) and stroll on.
The platform has one well-equipped occupant after I arrive. That’s promising, however the sea is flat, this means that that dynamic hovering is unattainable. That laws out Manx Shearwater, Fulmar or Skua. Whilst I proceed sea-watching for Black Guillemot and Eider my Swedish co-birder helps to keep taking a look on the cliff at the back of us.
I’m pondering “this is abnormal”, however he does have some degree – all the way through our surveillance we’re seeing dozens of passerines within the cliffside shrubs. I now get started following his gaze – turns out like a sensible factor to do. Not unusual Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Linnet, Lesser Redpoll, Eurasian Bullfinch and White Wagtail are common, after which there’s a Eurasian Pastime fly-by. I pay attention the Rosefinch once more however miss out on it in opposition to the sky, so my good fortune hasn’t modified. After all, nemesis not more, a Eurasian Bullfinch male is as transparent as may also be in opposition to the similar sky.
After a few hours with out new sightings I head again to the wooded area. Time for any other cross on the Rosefinch. It takes me not up to 5 mins to seek out him – thankfully making a song how happy he’s to satisfy me. Towards the daylight, with none visual color… No worries, I will be able to stroll to the opposite facet of the tree and notice the chicken with the solar in my again. However the place’s the chicken? Back off once more to pinpoint it, again up for the sunshine, not anything. Rinse and repeat again and again… The peak distinction between the 2 positions is obstructing the view I want. It’s there. I’ve noticed it, I’ve known it, however I nonetheless really feel upset sufficient to not “tick the field” in this lifer. I sit down down on the picnic tables additional up, grasp my breakfast from the auto and whilst consuming a banana imagine my choices. Listening to not anything particular, I make a decision to walk into the wooded area and after a large number of Icterine Warblers (imitating quite a lot of birds – consider a Greenshank in a tree) I bump into any other Not unusual Rosefinch. In complete mild, completely gorgeously purple. Whilst you least be expecting it… Some “ticks” are simply so a lot more pleasurable than others.
Time flies when birding and now I wish to be using again post-haste from Kullaberg to be in time for the marriage rite. The Swedish nation-state is dotted with indicators caution of crossing elk/moose/deer. As a child I all the time felt the pang of unhappiness as a result of animals would simply by no means bounce elegantly around the highway just like the signal obviously promised. As an grownup I learnt the indicators in Africa with leaping Kudu are extra fair – I’ve noticed that kind of showjumping occur a number of occasions. However in Europe, not anything. On the other hand, Sweden is also other in spite of everything. Whilst speeding again, I witness a automotive slam right into a Roe Deer simply after one such highway signal. A promise being stored with vital injury to the auto and what looked to be no vital accidents, thankfully. Heed the ones indicators in Sweden – the Swedes honour their phrase!
Even after having bogged down, I arrive on the rite with time to spare and in entrance of Mörarp’s old fashioned little church I meet Jesus. Seems he’s a chum of the bride, and from Monterrey in Mexico. We chat and comply with force in combination to Copenhagen day after today at midday. The mass begins, the birthday party follows, and the remaining is historical past. What occurs in Mörarp, remains in Mörarp. Let me simply say that Swedish indicators wish to be learn sparsely sooner than you draw the incorrect conclusion and get arrested.
As we will be able to most effective force to Copenhagen within the afternoon, the morning after the birthday party provides one ultimate birding alternative. The closest hotspot is Harlapps Dammar. Following the directions it’s simple to seek out, however be aware that the signal when coming from the south is hidden at the back of the timber. Should you leave out the turn-off on the yellowish space at the correct, U-turn on the railway line and go back. The signal at the reverse facet of the street is obvious to peer.
The website online is composed of the revitalised wastewater remedy ponds of an deserted sugar mill with shrubs and small patches of wooded area. As all over in Sweden, the trails, the hides, the platform: it’s all splendidly designed and well-maintained. An Osprey and Skåne County’s image Crimson Kite circle round every different within the sky. There’s a Not unusual Goldeneye mom with ducklets in tow, Crimson-necked Grebe, Mute Swan additionally with younger, all of the reed skulkers you’ll be able to consider. I even get to peer any other Thrush Nightingale.
Then, reluctantly, I close up and head for Helsingborg, select up Jesus and head for the Copenhagen airport. To be (again) or to not be, it’s now not a query.